Greetings, Enota friends.

Straw bales with flowering and trailing plants

Even if your home is surrounded by nothing but pavement, you can be an organic gardener!  Today – and for a couple more days – we will discuss straw bale gardening.  Here at Enota we have large organic gardens;  the ground is tillable and has successfully grown vegetables and herbs for several years.  But,  always desiring to educate our readers, we realize that not everybody has the type of land we do.  Straw bale gardening is a great way to compensate for that.

This is a straw bale garden set up on a concrete patio

Reasons to Try Straw-Bale Gardening:

You live in an area where there is very little land;  straw bales can literally be set up on concrete or asphalt and still have fantastic growing success.

If you have a “bad back”,  knee problems, are in a wheelchair,  or have any difficulty in bending or stooping straw bale gardening creates raised beds for ease of access to the plants.

If your land is rocky, hilly, or just has poor soil,  straw bale gardening provides you with a viable method for gardening – AND  feeds your existing soil.

Getting Started:

Calculate  the number of straw bales you want, keeping in mind that each straw bale will grow 2 tomato plants,  3 pepper plants,  etc.  Follow the guidelines for spacing, just as you would in a “normal” garden.  Each bale is about 16 inches wide and about 3 feet long.  Use straw bales, NOT hay bales – hay bales are full of seed, and those seeds will sprout!   Wheat straw works best, followed by oat straw;  pine straw  does NOT work!

rows of bales set up on a hilly slope

 

Buy bales that have been tightly baled, and use  bales that have synthetic twine if you can find them. The twine won’t rot and it will hold the bales together longer.   Place the bales with the twine off the ground; this will help them stay erect throughout the season.  We have found that making a double row abutting each other helps bale stability on sloping land.  Much like traditional gardening,  you can create garden beds in any shape you desire. A double row of bales allows ample reaching room from all sides.  Remember to allow enough room between bales for walking;  we allowed about 4 feet between rows

Preparing Your Bales

It takes 10 days to prepare your bales;  during this time you can be hardening off your transplants . Wet the straw bales down thoroughly for 7 days.   Then, make a compost tea mix and let that soak in the top of the bales. This gives the bales a good deep soaking of water, which it will hold for a long time and the fertilizer soaks in and adds nutrients to the bale that the plants will get.

Planting your Straw Bale Garden

Decide what plants you are going to plant so that you know how much space you want between them. Next remove some of the straw where you want the plants; take out 6 inches across and 8 inches deep. Fill the hole with good composting soil or a mix or garden soil and potting soil Water well and let sit for a few hours. Put more soil in if the soil level goes down.  Wait until it’s cloudy or close to 5 or 6p.m. in the afternoon when the sun isn’t so hot. Your transplants will appreciate being transplanted when the sun isn’t beating down on them.


Plant your transplants and water. After this garden is planted treat it like a regular garden. Water the plants when they need it and if it’s a very dry summer water the bales for a deep watering.  Tomatoes, potatoes, squash, greens, peppers, gourds and flowers all do well in the bales.  Stake tomatoes and peppers just like you would  in a traditional garden.

... just sit back and watch them grow...

We will continue our discussion of straw bale gardening next time.  Meanwhile, imagine all the wonderful organic produce you can have – with virtually no weeding, no hoeing, no stooping or bending.

Happy organic gardening!

…and, before you know it…

Does this look delicious, or what?

Remember, book your reservation now with Enota Campground and Eco-Village and you can experience hands-on organic gardening and farming.  Memorial Day weekend is coming soon and will usher in the summer season.  There is so much to do here in the North Georgia Mountains.  Perhaps  you’d like to relax on our campgrounds.  Or go swimming, hiking, and fishing.   Or go sight-seeing at nearby Brasstown Bald, Helen,  or Hiawassee.   There is  something (wonderful) for everybody.

Enota Mountain Retreat,  1000 Hwy 180, Hiawassee, GA  30546

(706) 896- 9966      email: enota@enota.com

official website:  www.enota.com

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Welcome, Enota Friends!

Today we are completing our series on herbs

for the organic garden.  Of course, we have not

included every herb in existence; but, have tried

to write about several popular herbs and in so

doing have described the different types of

herbs, how to care for them, harvest them, etc.

We are ever mindful of the need for education…

So many people are raising more and more of

their own food, and we hope to be of help in

your doing so successfully!

Today’s post will be a potpourri of herb types – 4 biennials, 1 annual, 1 tuber, and  a tender evergreen tree!  (Yes, you could try singing that last phrase to the 12 Days of Christmas song, but why?! )

Angelica:

Angelica is a biennial plant, meaning that it flowers after two years;  sometimes it only flowers in the fourth or fifth year; after it flowers,  the plant will die,  so the prudent gardener will start some each year to keep it going.  Plant the seeds in early spring; then, be patient… The seeds take quite some time to sprout.  Seedlings should be given 6 inches of space the first year; after that, they may need as much as 5 feet!  (Angelica takes up a lot of space;  the plants can grow as much as 6 feet tall.  Plant them at the back of your herb garden, as they can be quite imposing!)  Grow Angelica in rich soil and partial shade.

Because of the plants’ size,  as noted above,  this is one herb you might want to do without if you have limited space.  However, Angelica is really a great herb to have around.  The leaf stalks can be candied or crystallized, and the roots and stems can be cooked with fruits to provide natural sweetness.  If you want to harvest the leaves, cut them in early summer when the oils are strongest.  The leaves may be eaten as a vegetable, and they can be dried and reconstituted very well.  Leaf stalks for candying can be picked at the same time as the leaves.  Dig roots in the second year; after that they become too woody and tough.  This is really a versatile plant!

Bay:

Bay has many, many uses in the kitchen.  It is actually an evergreen tree,  but it is susceptible to frost,  so in cold climates plant your bay tree in a container so that it can be moved indoors for the winter.   You can pick leaves at any time; however,  you must dry the leaves before using them.  Dried bay leaves are great for stews,  soups,   sauces, and casseroles.  Bay will do well in average soil; add some bone meal and compost occasionally.  This plant likes  some sun, but needs to be sheltered from harsh winds.

Caraway:

Caraway seeds are used in many cakes, breads, and cheeses.  The leaves are a nice addition to salads, and the roots can be cooked and served as vegetables. Caraway is another biennial herb, so it is best to plant some each year.  Caraway is adaptable to most soils.  It is winter-hardy and is best suited to cool climates. Sow seed as soon as it ripens on an existing plant.  This plant needs protection from wind so that the seed heads don’t shatter before the seed is ripe. Harvest when the seed turns brown by snipping off the flowerheads.  Dry the seed in the flowerheads before threshing.

Chervil:

Chervil is a very useful herb.  If you have limited space or are choosing to grow only a few herbs, chervil should be one of your choices.  It is used like parsley, but has a more subtle flavor.  It is a great addition to an omelet, and a staple for salads.  It is also used in many sauces, and is the basis for French cooking.  Chervil is not cooked in sauces;  it is added at the last moment to preserve its delicate flavor.

Chervil is also a biennial plant,  so sow some seed yearly to keep a supply of this delicious herb always available.  Sow seeds where you want the chervil to grow, and thin the seedlings to about 10 inches apart;  Chervil does NOT like to be transplanted.   Chervil will grow in any soil except heavy clay or poorly-drained wet soil.  It needs some shade in summer,  but requires daylight in the winter, thus making it ideal to plant this herb in the partial shade of a deciduous tree. Chervil also grows well indoors in containers.  Harvest chervil leaves after six weeks of growth, cutting the leaves off with scissors before the plant flowers.

Parsley:

Parsley enhances poultry,  salads,  and sauces.  It is also a biennial,  so sow seeds every year.  There are several varieties of parsley, all requiring the same care in the organic garden.  Parsley requires rich soil with plenty of humus, and the soil needs to be well-worked with good drainage.  Parsley can be grown in containers; but, again, the soil must be rich and the container must have good drainage.  You will need patience to grow parsley from seed;  it is extremely slow to germinate.  (One trick is to put the seed between two layers of wet paper towels in the refrigerator for about two weeks.)  Pick parsley and use it fresh during the summer.  It also dries well and can be used dried in many sauces, with potatoes, or on poultry dishes.

 

Horseradish:

Horseradish is a perennial – actually a tuber.  The root is the usable part;  grate it to make a hot-tasting cream sauce to pair with beef, cold meats, and smoked fish.  Horseradish prefers deep, rich soil and will grow in any climate that is not too hot.  In hot climates, grow horseradish in the shade.  You can plant horseradish at any time of the year. Plant 3-inch pieces of root a couple inches deep.  Horseradish, once established, can be very invasive, so it is best to confine it by digging tiles deeply and vertically into the soil surrounding it.  Obviously, container gardening would prevent horseradish from over-spreading as well.

 

Mustard:

Mustard is an annual herb.  Sow seeds in early spring.  The seeds need good rich soil.  Mustard germinates easily and grows quickly.  The seeds are ground very fine and this resulting powder is what makes mustard like one buys in the grocery store.  Dry mustard powder is also delicious  in many sauces.  Seeds can also be used whole for pickling and in casseroles.  Young mustard shoots – cut two to three weeks after sowing – make a delicious addition to salads.  To harvest mustard seed,  pull the plants out of the ground before the pods are fully ripened. (They will be a yellowish-brown color).  Hang them in bunches to dry, and thresh out the seeds after the pods are well dried.

Wishing you a happy and successful

organic herb garden experience!

Enota Mountain Retreat, 1000 Hwy 180, Hiawassee GA 30546

(706) 896-9966          email: enota@enota.com

official website: www.enota.com

Spring Has Sprung!

March 21, 2011


Greetings, friends of Enota!

Today is the first day of spring, and it appears that it is going to be a gorgeous day up here in the North Georgia Mountains.   Once spring has arrived we realize that some serious time will soon be spent in the organic garden.  Today we hope to educate our readers as to what to do – and not do – in the early spring garden.

The yard and lawn in early spring:

Start winter cleanup of the lawn when the grass is no longer sopping wet and planting beds stop being a sea of mud.

Rake your lawn to get rid of dead growth, stray leaves, twigs and winter debris and let light and air to the soil level, encouraging the grass to grow.

Re-seed bare or damaged patches of lawn. Scratch up the soil with a rake first. Mix a shovel of soil with a couple of scoops of grass seed and spread in the patch you’re fixing. Rake level and keep well-watered until seeds germinate and the new grass establishes.

Get your lawn mower checked and its blades sharpened if you didn’t get the job done in late winter. Sharp blades cut better and leave your lawn grass healthier.

Weeds start growing vigorously early, so when you spot them, go to it. Getting on top of the weeding now means a lot less work later. Weeds are easier to pull out while their roots are still shallow in early spring.

Transplant any existing shrubs you want to move before they begin to leaf out

Apply dormant oil spray to fruit trees, magnolias, crabapples and shrubs to control scale insects and other overwintering pests. Use this organic pest control method when the buds are swelling but the leaves haven’t opened yet.

Early Spring Garden Jobs –  Flower Garden:


Don’t be in a rush to remove winter mulch or to cut back evergreen plants such as lavender until temperatures are reliably warm. 

Cut back any remaining dead perennial foliage from last season (trimmings can go into the compost).

Replant any perennials that the frost has heaved out of the ground as soon as you can.

Cut back ornamental grasses to about 10 inches from the ground.


Remove winter protection of mounded earth from roses. Prune rose bushes before they start to leaf out.

Resist the urge to start digging in your flower beds too early. If you pick up a handful of soil, it should fall apart, not stick together like glue. When it’s dry enough, you can start to dig beds and add compost or manure in preparation for planting.

Grass growth is vigorous in the early spring garden,  so edge your flower beds with a sharp trench between them and the grass to keep it in bounds. Repeat this job a couple of times through the spring and summer.

Early Spring Garden Jobs – Vegetable Garden

Sow spinach, mustard, kale, beets, peas and snow peas . . . directly in the garden in mid-March.


Don’t work soil too early . . . as above, in flower garden section. Avoid walking on wet soil as compaction results.

Turn the compost pile . . . especially if it smells, to let in more oxygen and to allow the material to dry.

Remove old asparagus . . . and rhubarb tops and side-dress the plants with fertilizer or manure. Dig and divide 4-year-old rhubarb plants.

Reduce the incidence of disease and insect problems in the vegetable garden by planning your rotation of crop families from one location to another.

Remove mulch  from strawberries once plants have started new growth and new leaves are slightly yellow.


Prune apple and pear trees . . . early this month. Wait until flowering to prune peaches and nectarines. Clean pruners between cuts with  a 10% bleach solution. Rinse, dry and oil pruning tools after use.


Start seeds indoors for warm season crops  such as peppers and tomatoes. This is a good way to have heirloom or gourmet vegetables that are not available from local feed stores or garden centers.

Don’t get impatient and plant tender plants too early.  In the words of Mark Twain:   “Climate is what we expect;  weather is what we get.”

We hope you have enjoyed this brief description of early spring shores for your organic gardens.  For hands-on organic gardening and organic farming experience, book your reservation at Enota.  Located in the North Georgia Mountains, near Helen, Hiawassee, and Blairsville, there is a lot to see and a lot to do… There is truly something for everyone.

Enota Mountain Retreat, 1000 Hwy 180, Hiawassee, GA 30546

(706) 896  – 9966                             email:  enota @enota.com

official website: www.enota.com


Hello, Enota Friends.

It’s almost springtime here in the North Georgia Mountains.  If you are an organic gardener,  you are beginning to plant the more cold-resistant plants in your garden, all the while planning for later additions as the weather warms up.

Today we will talk about annual herbs to add to your herb garden.  (At a later date we’ll discuss biennials and tree herbs,  which will complete the herb garden picture.)   Annuals are plants that need to be replaced every year; they do not survive the winter.  If you like, you can start annuals by sowing seed in early summer; or, buy organic seedlings at your local hardware or feed store.

6 Annual Herbs:

Basil:

Because frost will kill it,  Basil must be sown every year in cool climates.  In warm climates you may be able to winter it over by cutting it way back in the fall.  Basil also grows well in containers indoors.  Basil needs well-drained soil, and a sunny location is best.  Pick off leaves as they unfurl and use them fresh.  Then, cut down the plants in late summer for drying.  Basil leaves have a strong flavor and are frequently used in tomato-based sauces.  A simple salad dressing can be achieved by steeping basil leaves in olive oil.

Borage:

Borage will grow on most any soil, but it does prefer a sunny location.  Sow seeds in spring;  if the ground is left undisturbed, borage will self-sow for next year.   Eight weeks after sowing, begin cutting the young leaves, and continue frequent cuttings. Pick the flowers when they appear, and you may get two flowerings in one year.  Both the flowers and the leaves of borage are used in many cool summer drinks; the viscous juices in borage actually make the drinks cooler! You also can sprinkle the blue flowers over salad for a surprising dash of color.

Cilantro/Coriander:

Cilantro prefers rich soil in a sunny, well-drained location.  Sow seeds in late spring.  This plant will get about two feet tall, so plant it at the back of your herb garden.  Cilantro is used in Mexican food, and its seed – called coriander – is a staple in Indian cooking.  Harvest this plant when the seeds begin to turn brown.  Cut the plants near the ground and hang them up to dry.

Dill:

Dill will grow in most any soil as long as it is well-drained.  It needs sun, but will not do well if allowed to dry out.  Sow seeds in the spring and then again every 2 to 3 weeks to have a continuous supply of dill.  As long as you keep dill watered it will grow fast, producing large numbers of leaves before flowering.  You can start cutting the leaves when the plant is about 8 inches tall, and keep on cutting until fall.  The best time to cut for drying is just before it starts to flower.  Dried dill is used in many sauces and  with fish and chicken.  Dill seeds are used in making pickles.  Seeds can be harvested by cutting when both flowers and seeds appear on the head; dry them and store them for pickling.

Marjoram (Sweet):

Sweet Marjoram needs medium-rich soil, it needs lots of compost and a warm,  sheltered spot.  Sow seeds indoors in early spring;  seedlings need warmth and humidity. Pick leaves and stems toward the end of summer, before the bids open.  In cooking,  Sweet Marjoram goes well with game and poultry.

Nasturtiums:

Plant nasturtium directly into the garden in late spring; Nasturtium does NOT like to be transplanted!  Nasturtium likes sandy soil and a sunny spot.  Poor soil is best if you want a good crop of flowers.  But, if you prefer the leaves, add plenty of compost to your soil.  Nasturtium  also grow well in containers.  Cut the leaves in midsummer, just before the plants flower.  Chop and dry them.  The flowers do not dry well; they are best eaten fresh.  Nasturtium is a great asset to the organic garden, because it keeps pests away from other plants – especially peas, beans, and soft fruit.  People who like pepper will love Nasturtium.  The leaves spice up salads and cheese spreads.  And the flowers are a wonderful addition to salads.

Happy organic gardening!

If you would like to experience hands-on gardening education, come visit Enota Mountain Retreat.   Enjoy the beauty of the North Georgia Mountains, plus have an educational experience learning about organic farming and gardening. Call or email now to book your reservation… Memorial Day is coming up, followed by the busy summer season.  We look forward to seeing you.

Enota Mountain Retreat, 1000 Hwy 180, Hiawassee, GA 30546

(706) 896-9966           email: enota@enota.com

official web site: www.enota.com


Greeting, friends of Enota!

Springtime is just around the corner. Here in the North Georgia Mountains, it is time to plant strawberries.  Always desiring to educate and inform our readers, we are focusing today on the organic garden.

Today we are going to talk about strawberries… planting them, caring for them, harvesting them… eating them!  Strawberries are a perennial; but not your average perennial.  Strawberries are a “walking” plant… They have a simple root system, which exhausts the ground on which they grow in just a year or two.  To escape from this poor ground, strawberries send out runners which wander on the ground until they find a good spot to send down roots.

Pinching off blossoms from some of your healthy plants will encourage them to send out plenty of strong runners, thus keeping you in strawberry plants for the next years.  It is best to move your strawberry patch to totally fresh ground every three years with new plants.

Strawberries are a woodland plant;  this means they can tolerate shade. However, they will bear more fruit in the sun.  They like plenty of humus, and have been known to grow in pure leafmold in the wild.  They do well with lots of potash, so if you have wood ashes to spare, use them on your strawberry patch.

Strawberries in a Barrel:

Strawberries grow well in pots and tubs of all kinds.  A barrel makes an ideal strawberry planter.  Drill several staggered holes 3  inches wide and about 15 inches apart.  Drill these rows at 8-inch intervals.  Drill several drainage holes in the base and put a layer of gravel in the bottom.  Then insert a wire mesh tube (about 4 inches in diameter)  into the center of the barrel and fill this tube with gravel.  Then, fill the barrel with potting soil up to the first row of holes.  Set one plant into  each hole with the crown emerging.  repeat all the way up the barrel, watering each layer as you go.  Finally, set 4 or 5 plants in a circle on the very top.

How’d you like to have the equivalent of a 25-foot garden row on only four square feet of land, right outside the sunny south door of the house? This can be done by flanking your door with a matched pair of old-time strawberry barrels, each hosting 18 or 20 plants on the three or four square feet of land that would ordinarily be occupied by but one or two berry plants.

In a barrel, each plant remains  solitary and can be treated as tenderly as a house plant. Fruit stays off the ground, away from rots and molds, from marauding slugs, bugs, and meadow mice. Air flows freely, so diseases do not spread.  Capture any runners in small plastic pots and the baby plants can then be used to replace failing parent plants in following years.

Harvesting:

Pull the strawberries off the plant with their stems intact.  Leave the stems on until just before eating; vitamins and nutrients are very quickly lost once the stem is removed from a strawberry.  Store them in the shade for a few hours, or in the refrigerator for a day or two.  Strawberries can be frozen, but go soft when thawed.

For a delicious, natural treat, serve cleaned strawberries still on the stems. Dip berries in honey, then rolled oats.  Enjoy!

To visit our organic gardens and farm, book your reservation now for Enota Mountain Retreat.  One upcoming event which is sure to please you is the  “All Things ORMUS”  conference May 18 to 22,  featuring speakers David Wolfe and Barry Carter.  This popular four-day conference will fill up quickly, so book your reservation soon;  see conference details  on our web site, as note below.

Enota Mountain Retreat,  1000 Hwy 180, Hiawassee, GA 30546(706) 896-9966

email: enota@enota.com

official web site:  www.Enota.com


Greetings, friends of Enota!

Here in the North Georgia mountains we are experiencing “Spring Fever”. Spring Fever can be a good thing, as it makes us think about planning and planting gardens.  Today we will talk about herb gardens.  Herb gardens are fairly easy to maintain;  herbs don’t require much attention… Give them a good start, and they will produce an abundance of  tastes and smells –  a wonderful reward for the gardener.

Many of the most popular cooking herbs can be easily grown in the home garden.  Raised beds provide the drainage most herbs need for growth, and, creating a perennial herb bed is a good investment.  Depending on how much of any given herb you want to grow, you can create separate beds for each herb or combine them into one raised bed herb garden.  Then,  add an annual herb garden to complete your herbal cooking needs, or plant *annual herbs alongside your tomatoes and peppers within the vegetable garden.

*common annual herbs are basil, dill and  parsley; sometimes these will self-seed from year-to-year; sometimes not. Have a separate bed for annual herbs.

7 Common Perennial Herbs:

Chives:

This onion-family herb is a grassy, bunching perennial. Chives grow 12 to 18 inches high.  Use in soups, sauces, and salads.  You might want to grow garlic chives, which combine the flavor of mild garlic and chives.

Lemon Balm:

This is a very prolific perennial, which grows  2 to 2 &1/2 feet tall.  Use the leaves to make tea, or use it in salads, vegetable dishes, and fruit salad.  Lemon balm attracts bees – good for nearby vegetable plant pollination in the family garden!

Oregano:

Oregano is actually a “tender evergreen” plant.  It grows to about 18 inches tall.  Use it in tomato-based sauces, with meat, and in salads.  Dried oregano is often used in many salad dressings, soups, and sauces.

Rosemary:

Rosemary is a very attractive decorative plant; some varieties are creepers, which creep on the ground about a foot, so leave space around young plants for creeping.  Rosemary is frequently used in meat and poultry dishes, and is also used in sauces, soups, and salad dressings.

Sage:

Sage is an ornamental perennial herb that is often used with eggs, poultry, fish, and meats.  It is fast-growing, and  can grow up to 3 feet high.   For cooler climates, dwarf sage is more hardy; it grows to about 12 inches tall and is less likely to be winter-killed in northern areas.

Savory:

Savory is a spicy herb, nick-named “poor man’s pepper”.  The plant grows to about 18 inches tall.  Savory is used in soups, salads, sauces and sandwiches-  very versatile!

Tarragon:

This 2 &1/2 foot tall perennial is much more flavorful when used fresh than dried, but can be used either way. Tarragon makes a wonderful vinegar and oil dressing; also, it is good in tartar sauce, and with fish,cheese, eggs, and cauliflower.

So, there you have it… 7 perennial plants to start you off on an herb garden of your own.  For hands-on education on organic gardening, visit the gardens and farm animals here at Enota Mountain Retreat. This year  Memorial Day weekend is May 28,29,and 30.  Make your reservation now to enjoy the unique beauty and educational opportunities here at Enota.  We look forward to seeing you.

Enota Mountain Retreat, 1000 Hwy 180, Hiawassee, GA 30546

(706) 896 9966         email: enota@enota.com

official web site: www.enota.com

Garden Solutions

March 15, 2011


Hello, Enota friends!

Yes, it is already time to think about garden pests… and their solutions – literally!  There are many natural solutions that we mix in the blender and use for the garden plants.

Today we will cover a few of them.

Sugar Spray:

If the bees and butterflies  aren’t showing up to pollinate your garden, spray with this solution:   2 cups water with 1/2 cup sugar; pour the sugar into the water and boil, stir until dissolved; cool this mixture; then dilute it with a gallon of water;  pour into hand spray mister, and spritz the plants.  Obviously, this needs to be repeated after it rains.

Japanese Beetle spray:

Mix 2 teaspoons baking soda and 1 teaspoon “Dawn” dish-washing detergent in 1 quart water.  Spray plants with this solution;  no need to pick off beetles – they will fall off!  They are attracted to the solution, but it is deadly to them, yet won’t harm plants, flowers, or veggies.  This spray is excellent for rose bushes.

Orange You Glad You Sprayed With This!

This garden solution kills armyworms, corn borers,  corn earworms, and tomato hornworms.  Put 1 cup chopped orange peels and 1/4 cup boiling water in the blender; liquefy; then, let mixture set overnight – do not refrigerate.  Next morning, strain through cheesecloth into a hand-held sprayer.  Add water to fill the sprayer and spray your plants – be sure to spray the entire plant… not just the top.

(You can make the same solution with any citrus peels – lemon, lime, grapefruit – or a combination of them.)

Deer Deterrent:

One sure way to keep various wild critters away from the garden is human urine! Yes, we know it sounds disgusting, but, do you want to keep the wild animals away, or not? This solution works on deer, rabbits, moles, etc.   Fill tin cans or glass containers about halfway full with urine;  place the containers here and there throughout the garden patch – especially around its’ perimeter. This is one solution that costs absolutely nothing, since every farmer has an unending supply of this magic ingredient!

Slug ‘Em:

Mix solution of 50% vinegar and 50% water; spray on slugs.  This needs to be done at dusk which is when the slugs seem to think your garden is an open buffet!  You will need to repeat this solution for thee or four days to really get rid of slugs.

Another solution for slugs is to directly sprinkle them with salt.  However, if you overdo it, the salt can harm the plants.

Cabbageworm Cocktail:

Mix 1 cup flour with 2 Tablespoons cayenne pepper;  sprinkle on young plants. The flour swells up inside the cabbageworms/cabbage loopers and they burst;  the cayenne pepper keeps other pests away.

Cabbageworms and cabbage loopers are pale green caterpillars; the cabbageworms eat only plants of the cabbage family;  the cabbage loopers also eat beans, peas, potatoes, and tomatoes.

So, there you have it!  A good start on  saving your veggies – and flowers, too- without using chemical pesticides.   Happy organic gardening!  For hands-on organic gardening experience, come visit us at Enota  Mountain Retreat. Our purpose is to educate our visitors on organic gardening, living green, healthy living.

Book a cabin, room, or camping site and enjoy the beautiful North Georgia Mountains.  Relax, learn, go fishing and hiking; experience our organic gardens and farm animals.  Memorial Day will be here soon – book your reservation now.

Enota Mountain Retreat, 1000 Hwy 180, Hiawassee GA 30546

(706) 896-9966                      email: enota@enota.com

official web site: www.Enota.com

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